We love road-tripping around rural US and are all about leaning into the cliché of journeys over destinations – it’s at least half the fun of travelling across the US. The gas station coffee, making impulsive choices with snack foods, tuning in to local radio for some fiery talkback, pulling over to stop every few miles to take (another) photo of a grain silo, an old barn or a billboard about God – bring it on.

We jagged an ideal driving day with mild temps, sunny breaks and mostly clear dry roads.  Google was confident it could be done in around 3.5 hours, but we’d advise to plan for 4 or 5. Winter driving can throw curveballs with icy roads and snow storms and there are some sections between Tetonia and Yellowstone (where this picture is taken) where if it’s storming or blowing they abruptly pull down the gates and close the road.  It’s country driving and even if you’re not used to driving on the right-hand side it’s not that different to anything most Aussie skiers would do between Sydney or Melbourne to get to their usual ski resort, although instead of watching for roos and wombats out here you need to slow down for snowmobiles crossing. The great news is, if you want to skip the driving altogether there are now handy shuttle connections running between Jackson and Big Sky – which is perfect for anyone wanting to tick off two seriously great ski areas without the hassle of car rental.  

As we neared the turn off to Big Sky there were signs we had arrived amongst our people.

A couple of hardcore Wim Hof-ers were in the river and the local school’s performing art centre is named for Warren Miller. We later learned his ashes are scattered out the back of Big Sky.

First impressions as we rolled up – it felt like a ski resort but also a real place.  It’s tidy, well organised and feels like everything works smoothly but not so perfectly you feel like you’re in the Truman Show.

Much of this is testament to the investment and work the owners, Boyne Resorts, have put in here recently to bring the resort experience up to date.  Big Sky has just celebrated 50 years and is looking as good as Gwyneth Paltrow. They’ve definitely had work done, but those high-speed lifts and sleek day lodges shave years off their true age. As Aussies we loved the played down approach to the big 5 – 0 milestone which the resort wryly says in their marketing, ‘we call that a pretty good start’.  

Big Sky’s birthday gift to themselves and their guests was unwrapped in December – a glorious, sleek and shiny new tram that flies you up to the top of Lone Peak in under five minutes and still has that new car smell.  

A couple of things about the tram – they don’t sandwich you in. You also don’t have to be a skier to ride it – you can head up top for a look and ride back down, but the loading station is up in the ski area, so you can’t do it in your Ugg boots (yet). The future plan is to build additional gondola links connecting the base to the summit, add dining and an observation experience as a year-round attraction.

The tram is a highlight but if you were anywhere else the rest of the lifting network would be a headline in its own right. Take your pick of high-speed six and eight seaters, savour the heated seats and bubbles that make the uphill experience almost as appealing as the downhill bit we are all here for. And they’re not done, there are more lifting upgrades in the plan so what is already a great experience – no lines, smooth rides – is only getting better.

But we’re completely burying the lead here, it’s the mountain that you’re here for and the clue is on the label, as promised it is… big. But unlike many resorts, that are also big and promise tonnes of tasty terrain, this one is uncrowded so the bigger feels even better.  

The pitch from Big Sky is that they offer around an acre per skier and as you get out on the runs you start to believe it. There were moments it felt like we’d accidentally entered a closed run because there was no one in sight. Some resorts might quibble about the stats as to which North American resort can claim to be the ‘biggest’ but if Big Sky isn’t on top, it’s damn close, and unlike other contenders such as Whistler and Park City there are zero crowds out here.  We know which mountain we’d choose.

This visit was a fly-by as we were short on time but as we took our last run we agreed, we really need to come back here and explore the place properly. We barely scratched the surface and skied past so many glades and looked up at so many chutes that are on the ‘next time’ list.  

Despite being tucked away in Montana Big Sky is slowly getting on more skiers’ radars and for good reason. Ikon Pass holders get between four to seven days here (you need to add the tram) and for Australians making the pilgrimage to Big Sky or Jackson Hole you’d be mad not to do both. Just leave space in your luggage in case you want to bring home a big ol’ cowboy hat and a belt buckle or two.

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Exploring the Slopes: A Playground of Possibilities

Big White’s slopes offer a tapestry of terrain and caters to skiers and snowboarders of all skill levels. As I traversed the vast and variable landscapes, I was met with a sense of excitement and anticipation. From gentle groomers to challenging steeps, there was plenty to explore and to cater for my whole crew with varying skill levels.

My beginner friends found solace in gentle, rolling hills and wide-open groomed runs, where they could build their confidence and hone their technique in a supportive and encouraging environment.

The intermediate riders, including myself, revelled in the challenge of navigating winding trails and undulating terrain, where every turn and tree run through the Black Forest presented a new opportunity for exploration and discovery. On clear and powdery bluebird days, we shifted seamlessly from the top of the Alpine T bar at an elevation of 2,285 m (7,497 ft) through the mountain’s iconic snow ghosts and North America’s best glades, which captivated the senses and nourished the soul.

For more experienced riders, Big White’s advanced terrain provides steep chutes, rocky outcrops, and hidden powder stashes. From challenging mogul fields to technical tree runs, the possibilities are as endless as they are exhilarating.

For adrenaline-seeking snow enthusiasts, TELUS Park, Big White’s terrain park provides the perfect canvas for riders to unleash their creativity and showcase their talents. For beginner park riders like me, the park offered a welcoming environment to hone my skills and build my confidence. Patient instructors are also on hand to offer guidance and encouragement, helping riders navigate their first jumps and master the art of freestyle skiing and snowboarding. Meanwhile, seasoned veterans can push themselves to new heights on the park’s more advanced features. With massive jumps and technical rails, the park provides the perfect canvas for riders to unleash their creativity and showcase their talents.

While testing out my skills and limits in the terrain park, I saw more than just a collection of jumps and rails. It’s a community, a gathering place where riders come together to share their passion for the sport. Whether it’s cheering on fellow riders from the sidelines or trading tips and tricks with friends, I witnessed a sense of camaraderie that permeates the atmosphere, uniting riders of all ages and backgrounds.

As the sun set each evening and the lights came on, the park took on a magical quality, its features were illuminated against the backdrop of the starry night sky. It gave us a great opportunity to experience the thrill of night skiing and snowboarding, making the most of British Columbia’s best snow under the twinkling lights.

Beyond the Slopes: Adventures Await

Venturing off-piste, I embarked on a snowmobiling tour that delved deep into the backcountry wilderness. Led by an experienced guide, the excursion offered a glimpse into the untouched beauty of the surrounding landscape.

With my helmet secured and goggles in place, I started the engine and felt the adrenaline course through my veins. With a gentle push of the throttle, we rode across the pristine snow, leaving behind a trail of powder in our wake. The valley landscape unfolded in a dazzling display of natural beauty. The towering evergreens covered with snow and the Big White peaks pierced the clear blue sky.

As we delved deeper into the wilderness, the terrain became more rugged, and the challenges more exhilarating. We navigated winding trails that snake through the forests and tackled steep ascents and thrilling descents. With each twist and turn, I felt the rush of freedom in my flushed cheeks and took in the serenity of our surroundings.

Beyond snowmobiling, Big White Ski Resort also offers a plethora of activities to captivate visitors of all ages and interests.

Patrons can explore the winter wonderland at a slower pace by strapping on a pair of snowshoes. They can ice skate at Big White’s outdoor skating rink – Canada’s highest outdoor skating rink. Experience the thrill of sliding down snow-covered slopes in an inflatable tube at the Tube Park. Embark on an unforgettable adventure through the snowy wilderness with a dog sledding tour. Or snuggle up under a blanket and take a scenic sleigh ride through the winter landscape.

Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or simply a chance to connect with nature, Big White has something for everyone to enjoy.

Après-Ski Delights: Unwinding in Style

Every night, after the sun set behind the mountains, there was a myriad of village venues to choose from to indulge in the après ski scene.

Kelly from Sasquach Sushi spoiled my tastebuds with uniquely flavoured rolls, tuna tataki, and sashimi salad. The modern Japanese flavours of Sasquach paired beautifully with the cozy and vibrant environment to make this the perfect après experience.

While venturing into Underground Pizza the next night, John and Ana greeted me with the warmest of Big White charm and hospitality. They invited me to sit at the infamous ‘locals table’ where we shared artisanal pizzas and listened to stories from patrons who called the mountain home.

On Thursdays, be sure to toast to a day well spent and belt out your best Karaoke tunes at the biggest weekly night in town at BullWheel Gastro Family Pub. A welcoming atmosphere for all who want the cozy ambience of a mountain lodge and delicious comfort food.

Every Saturday at 9:00 pm, Big White puts on a dazzling display of fireworks that light up the night sky, enhancing the mountain’s magical atmosphere.

Whether I wanted to indulge in classy gourmet cuisine or smash some ski shots with my mates, there was a diverse array of après options for me in this alpine paradise.

Embracing Winter’s Charms: A Conclusion

The greatest gift that I received from my time at Big White, was a sense of community and shared bond with fellow adventurers who, like me, were drawn to the mountain in search of something more. Whether swapping stories by the fireplace over a hot chocolate or cheering each other on from the sidelines, I found solace in knowing that I was part of something so special and greater than myself, a tribe united by our love for outdoor adventure.

As I packed my bags and bid farewell to Big White, I carried with me fond memories of blissful sessions floating through the snow and breathtaking vistas. I discovered that this special place wasn’t just another vacation destination, but a sacred space to renew my sense of purpose, expand my comfort zone, and live life to the fullest, one magical tree run at a time.

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Few places capture the collective imagination of skiers worldwide with the same twangs of thrill and yearning like the legendary Rocky Mountains. The peaky cornices of Arapahoe Basin, the fabled back bowls of Vail and the gladed stashes of Beaver Creek remain rooted in the minds and muscle memory of those who have made turns in them. As for the storybook Colorado villages dappled around their bases; they will leave marks on the hearts of most unsuspecting powder pilgrims.

Ski fiend and travel writer KATE ALLMAN discovers it all on a winter mission through Colorado.

Arapahoe Basin

I’m soaring above a white canvas, skis pivoting left and right through the air as I draw my first imaginary lines from the chairlift. Sparkles prick up in little rainbows from tiny flakes reflecting ultraviolet light. 

We are cruising through the high, thin air of the Rocky Mountains, under typically dazzling Colorado sunshine. A surprise dump – which is so common in this state we should really stop using the word surprise – has struck overnight. It’s not “officially” a powder day but US snow reporters have done what they always do and underreported the accumulation, leaving the foot or two of fresh to only those in the know. The mountain looks resplendent. 

Arapahoe Basin – known as A-Basin to locals – has one of the longest ski seasons in the USA. It has peaks to rival the tallest (the hike-accessed East Wall is 13,000 feet – equal to nearby Breckenridge’s famous Peak 8), and powder that falls by the metre-load. 

It’s less than two hours from Denver and off a highway that is notorious for weekend warrior traffic, the i70. Somehow, though, we’re the only three skiers on the scene.

“Where is everyone?” I ask local ski patroller Louis Skowyra, A-Basin’s Director of Mountain Operations.

“Oh this? This is a pretty standard Tuesday for us,” he grins back.

The highest peaks jut into a wind-wrestled sky, creating A-Basin’s famous A-framed cornices that collect creamy landings after fresh snow. Portions of groomer corduroy are hemmed on either side by shin-deep meadows. We dive headfirst over the backside into empty Moctezuma Bowl, a favourite playground at A-Basin.

It’s zoomies on Zuma Bowl, then a refuel. Il Rifugio is the highest-elevation restaurant on the continent, at an incredible 12,456 feet. Warm and welcoming after a morning in deceptively cold temperatures (despite the sun, high elevation keeps the snow crisp and the mercury lower than it may appear). 

When I visit in January 2024, A-Basin is still floating outside the two-pass ski war raging across the rest of the country, before it is bought by Ikon Pass owners Alterra in February. Its independence and lack of pretentiousness has long been a source of fierce pride for locals. 

The culture is a quirky dichotomy: on one hand they call it “the legend” for its fabled big mountain expert terrain and steeps. An area dubbed the “Steep Gullies” was once all backcountry terrain that was added within the ski area boundary in recent years and offers some of the steepest and most challenging in-bounds terrain in Colorado. 

On the other hand, it has a reputation for riotous and spontaneous après parties – which start and end in the parking lot just steps from the lifts. Sun spills into the lot through the afternoon, as hordes of skied-out riders drift toward their vehicles with no intention of going home immediately. Lounge chairs, beers, barbeques, and boom boxes appear and the area becomes “the Beach”. Many a reddened goggle tan shows up to work on Monday after a weekend at the Beach. 

The origins of this baked-on ski bum culture are also legendary. A former US Army skier called Larry Jump – yep, his real name – was a statewide surveyor who had been hired by Colorado to scope out potential ski areas after WWII. He and two Olympic skiers on the US ski team opened the resort in 1946 with one mid-mountain rope tow. To get to the rope tow, skiers were chauffeured in a US Army troop carrier pulled uphill through the snow by a four-wheel drive. The opening date in 1946 makes it Colorado’s oldest ski resort.

Adding to the appeal, A-Basin towers above a charming historic ski town called Frisco, population 3000. Silver and gold rooted it here in the mining days of the late 1800s. These days its major drawcard is as a basecamp of outdoor adventures. Fat bikers, hikers, campers and snowshoers thrive but skiing is the main game – it is affectionately dubbed the “Main Street of the Rockies” as it’s smack bang between six resorts including Breckenridge, Vail and Copper Mountain. As snowflakes float under lamp posts outside my window at Frisco Inn overnight, I can feel the town tightening its grip on my snow-addled soul. 

After my visit, Alterra Mountain Company acquires A-Basin and announces plans to bring it under the Ikon Pass. It’s unquestionably a boon for Australian and New Zealand visitors who come to the US wielding multi-resort passes. Plus, I have to hand it to Alterra – the company has a decent track record in preserving the uniqueness of resorts around the world while upgrading older facilities and investing profits back into the mountains. The cowboy powder haven of Steamboat in Colorado, the luxurious ski mecca of Deer Valley in Utah, and the wild southern steeps of Taos in New Mexico are three Ikon Pass examples in neighbouring states with vastly different – and awesome – vibes.

Alterra’s acquisition also gives me a key piece of bragging ammunition when I return to Australia. Did you ski A-Basin when it was still independent? I did, and it was dreamy.

Vail 

Whether you have skied Vail or not, you likely have heard of it, and possibly formed an impression of it. Such is the transcendent impact this mountain has had on ski culture throughout history.

It’s the namesake of global ski giant Vail Resorts and its Epic Pass. The fourth-largest skiable area on the continent with 5,317 acres and 195 runs. And it’s the birthplace of the winningest Alpine skier in history – Mikaela Shiffrin, who has two Olympic Gold medals and 97 World Cups in her career, at just 29 years old.

All of that should be reason enough for every skier to hit Vail at least once in their lifetime. Yet for contradictory reasons, some choose to avoid it. Social media lift lines plague ski resorts everywhere on busy weekends in Colorado, and no resort is immune. Midweek, the lines are non-existent; but those who enjoy it are smart enough not to share on TikTok videos. The benefit of being at a larger resort is having the space and infrastructure to disperse them. The benefit of Vail specifically is being able to jump up and over multiple peaks to get to the far backside, where very few people venture. These are the Back Bowls, and these are what makes Vail legendary.

When Vail follows the Colorado winter script (dumping overnight and bluebird by sunrise), the Back Bowls are the best place in the state to be. The early risers rush to claim first tracks in a skating, huffing, turn-avoidant pack. Up another lift and straight-line down the next. But soon, all at once, there’s no need to quarrel. Because the enormous Back Bowls reveal themselves and their jaw-dropping, endless terrain with powder enough for everyone.  

Ant-sized figures make S-curves across the horizon, choosing tree mazes on Shangri-La or rolling up and down a natural halfpipe on skiers’ right of China Bowl. Cloud 9 magnetises many to its gladed trees and fun-size bumps. Meanwhile, Steep & Deep is exactly what it sounds like – a shock re-entry out of the après and BBQ parties convening on the outdoor grills at Blue Sky Basin.

This year, we visit between storms which means I miss reliving the waist-deep powder I’ve experienced on prior Vail trips, but instead stumble into pleasing new territory. Previously, the Back Bowls became a crusted-over nightmare within a day or two after snow, hardening as they faced the melting southern sun. These days, Vail sends groomer cats all the way over the backside to clear areas of soft corduroy at first light, with ungroomed glades and cliff options still available on either side. The daring can hit Dragon’s Teeth off China Bowl while cruisers in the same group can carve blue cords right next to them. 

Unlike other Colorado ski towns that emerged out of the mining boom, Vail was once cabbage and lettuce-farming land. The village was purpose-built to cater to skiers from its very inception when the mountain opened in 1962. Thus, the two base villages, Vail village and Lionshead (both have direct gondola access up the mountain), are walkable in ski boots and brimming with après options. A favourite for this writer is the Tavern on the Square at the base of the Arabelle hotel (try the Elk with barbeque sauce on the side). Luxury hotels like The Arabelle and The Hythe jostle with Aspen brands to claim the most high-end ski accommodations in the country. And yet you’ll still run into all kinds of hardcore ski bums making their way up the valley, many who don peeling Gortex and care not for ski fashion but have eyes only for the Back Bowls. 

Aspen faithfuls love to undermine the purpose-built village but the answer by Vail locals is a good one. “Aspen is a real town with fake people. Vail is a fake town with real people.” The truth is both mountains are awesome for their own unique qualities. If you don’t believe me, that’s just more powder to the people.

Beaver Creek 

Beaver Creek may be named after the cute furry animals that inhabited the land before it was a ski resort and have a reputation as a holiday destination for the Housewives of Beverley Hills. But just like both those conniving creatures, the Beav has deceptively sharp teeth.

Ski the Beav and you’ll come to understand why this mountain deserves more than a passing glance as you make your way down the valley from Vail. It boasts some of the steepest and most technically challenging runs in the nation. Birds of Prey drops 2,470 feet in 1.71 miles, with a heart-stopping 45 percent pitch somewhere in the middle. Adjacent run Raptor was built in anticipation of the 2015 Women’s World Championship Races and saw the pros clocking speeds of 120km/h. Fair warning; it is a championship course, so its caretakers intermittently hose the course down with water. Making a turn on the resulting sheet ice can be like trying to find a fingernail grip on glass.

The Beav is made up of three ridgelines running towards its base village in “talons” named in honour of predatory flying creatures. Grouse Mountain, Larkspur and Birds of Prey are the talons. The “Talon Challenge” is to ski all 14 black runs across the resort in a single day.

On my first day in Beaver Creek, we don’t bother glancing at the trail map and make our way up Grouse Mountain. This is the talon that accesses steep black and double-black expert terrain only. A gate at the top is like a red flag to a bull. Naturally we slide through it and hit the trees of Royal Elk Glade on the ski area boundary. It’s a mix of fear, thrill and joy as tall pines close in around me and then open up in wide-open powder meadows. 

Stone Creek Chutes boasts big cliff drops for skiers who really want to send it. Meanwhile Frontside Trees remain remarkably untouched on powder days as everyone rushes to the backside. A turnoff for beginners but a delight for those attacking the frontside with teeth.

Speaking of attacking with teeth, Beaver Creek village is one place to splurge on your eat-out budget. First do so at Mediterranean restaurant Citrea, where share plates of marinated beets, oozing mozzarella, lamb osso bucco and moreish woodfired flatbread will haunt you for months. Alternatively (or additionally) a dinner at historic farmhouse Beano’s Cabin is a unique highlight of a trip here. You reserve your spot, check in at the base of the mountain in the evening to be chauffeured uphill on a sleigh under moonlight. The best part is the lack of decision fatigue involved; first course is a warming bowl of soup with crusty bread and beyond that you simply choose from two options for each of three remaining courses of local Coloradan cuisine.

The lack of decision fatigue could be the best part of Beaver Creek in general. It has some of the best grooming in the world, so corduroy stays fresh and soft if ever the snow is lacking. And when the storms come, the trees groan under the weight of powder for weeks afterwards. The mountain somehow gains 300 inches of snow and 300 days of sunshine every year. If you’re flying across the world to chase reliable conditions, skiing the Beav is a safe bet.

Fort Collins

While not technically a ski area, this Colorado mountain town should be on itineraries of adventurers looking to get off the beaten track. It’s a base camp for a variety of lesser-known and independent ski resorts in the north of the state including Echo Mountain, Loveland and Eldora. It’s also the gateway to Front Range backcountry skiing around Cameron Pass, with the notorious bowls and chutes of Seven Utes Mountain, and on the doorstep of Rocky Mountain National Park. With the right safety gear, experience and map skills, you can enter new undiscovered worlds from Fort Collins.

The whole area is a magnet for adrenaline seekers – if you need a day off skis, the best bike paths, trail running routes, river rafting and hiking in Colorado start here. The town itself is a hidden gem – an historic Western outpost with a charming walkable downtown area, the ideal stopover en route to the slopes from Denver airport and a lot cheaper than staying on snow. Healthy local food stands out here more than elsewhere (the moreish brussels sprouts at café Ginger and Baker are in my top five veggie dishes ever). It’s also known as the craft beer capital of Colorado, with more than 21 craft breweries to rehydrate after a long day up in the mountains. 

This year, an unfortunate injury prevented my powder pilgrimage reaching into the untrodden backcountry of Colorado. That adventure we will save for another day. Nevertheless, our diversion to FoCo remains joyfully etched in my memories. Another Colorado legend to check out before it’s too late.

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Skiers make the pilgrimage to Japan in a quest for deep, light untracked powder and as we stood up on the tree-less summit draining the final sip of our thermos coffee and clicking into our skis we were already anticipating the silent and sparkling pillow ride down. 

A few hours earlier we’d set out from Grandeco Snow Resort with a gondola ride and then a chair bump to 1600m. It was from there we turned on beacons and followed our local guides along a thigh deep track, feeling our heart rates and body temperature climb as we did.  

What is just short of 400 metres of vertical took between 2-3 hours, a sobering reminder of the respect that must be paid to altitude and the challenge of making trail through deep powder. What it generously gives in feather light floating descents it demands back when you want to head in the other direction.  We make a mental note to step up our pre-ski fitness regime and opt for skins over snow shoes next time. 

Nearing the summit, we pause to take in the surreal and enchanting view of the famed ‘Snow Monsters’ – the trees that have been so loaded and rimed with ice and snow they really do look like mystical creatures.

The ski down on virgin powder was worth every moment of the hike up. Drawing a line of turns through a silent forest on legendary Japanese pow feels like pure joy and there’s a reason it’s on the bucket list of every skier. We try to savour the moments which are gone all too quickly and we’re back inbounds before we know it settling in for traditional hot pot. If the stereotypical Japanese experience wasn’t already captured in our picture postcard morning, we rounded it out with a soak and steam in the hotel onsen. When in Japan. 

Grandeco Snow resort is nestled in Honshu’s Tohoku region and it’s in the midst of a transformative phase. Simply put, it’s perhaps a bit underestimated right now and if you want to ‘discover’ it before everyone else does you might want to get here soon.  

The resort caters to powder enthusiasts with dedicated off-piste areas, great powder skiing under the abandoned lift and surrounds and a ‘powder course’ threading through the trees. During our weeklong stay daily top ups of 5-15cm kept the riding fresh without being extreme. For those in your crew who might still be finding their powder legs Grandeco rolls out plenty of superb grooming so they’ll be happy shredding cord.  And talking resort comforts they do have some hooded chairlifts in the mix which is welcome on a snow day.

Grandeco Resort has just 11 official runs, 5 park runs, 1 gondola and 3 chairlifts but the runs are long, and the side access is expanding every season. It’s a good base to check out the surrounding Bandai and Arabandai areas where there are 8 local snow resorts, such as Nekoma, only a short drive. Nekoma is an exercise in contrasts – previously two separate resorts it is now linked with a new lift. The south is more modern and leans to beginner/intermediate terrain, while the north offers more pitch and challenge and less people but with a trade off of old-Soviet vibes and less safety bars.

I’ve been exploring Japanese ski areas since I was 16 and after clocking up time in close to 30 different resorts I will admit many can leave the accommodation side of a ‘holiday’ wanting. Getting the balance of comfort and authenticity is tricky. Swing too far on the side of traditional and you could spend your stay with fish and rice for breakfast, firm futons on tatami mats in tiny spaces and communal bathing or at the other extreme, it’s completely westernised resorts where you miss all the local flavour and culture.

Grandeco Resort seem to have struck that Goldilocks balance that makes a new visitor to Japan feel comfortable while making a great base for those who know their udon from their soba. There are western ski resort touches like a warming fireplace with marshmallows, a coffee machine offering bottomless refills and a library but ample opportunity to discover local cuisine and wine which is all local – you’ll want to try the Abukuma River salmon and the prefecture’s Wagyu beef. Turn on the tap and the water you drink and bathe in is from the local Onogawa Natural Spring – they even serve a unique water-jelly like dessert.  

The hotel is truly ‘ski in ski out’ with the gondola just a one-minute slide from the backdoor. When you’re not on the snow the hotel offers a 25-metre indoor pool, two generous size indoor and outdoor onsens, free massage chairs, a laundry (a travel bonus for families) and a massage service.

We were the only western guests during our stay but that’s unlikely to last long with programs like the Rookie Academy out of New Zealand starting to run powder camps here. I was fortunate to spend a day with Academy founder Dean and my confidence and comfort at riding in powder is already on the uptick.

There’s plenty to see in the local area when not skiing so you may want to rent a car or tap into the hotel’s shuttle services. If you’re into Japanese history this region gives you a good sense of the power, politics and economy of the Meiji Restoration period. The town of Aizu, just an hour from the snow resort has an incredible castle with a museum that gives visitors an excellent understanding of weaponry, class hierarchy, traditional dress and topography. The multiple moats around the city were dug by hand. Yamatogawa Sake brewery in nearby Kitakata runs fascinating brewery tours at its contemporary site sourcing and growing rice locally. Its 220-year-old original brewery is also open as a museum and tasting room. 

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Off-piste, less crowds, cheaper tickets and excellent powder is the magic combo we travel to find. In Switzerland’s Engelberg and Jungfrau regions these factors are off the charts and what’s more, they’re stunning destinations. Don’t take my word for it, here are 10 compelling reasons to pack your bags and see for yourself.

                               ENGELBERG – TITLIS

Longer Season 

Engelberg is one of Switzerland’s premier snow resorts with over 82 km of skiable terrain spanning three majestic mountains and a vertical drop of 2000m. With a charming town and abundant natural beauty facing northwards, it offers an especially long season with reliable stashes of powder to discover between mid-October to mid-May. 

The Off-Piste

With an impressive annual snowfall, Engelberg, (Little Canada) receives 53cm more snow than Zermatt and boasts about 50% more snowfall than Verbier during December alone. This is thanks in part to favorable weather conditions up on the 3062m Titlis Glacier.

The resort’s vertical drop of 2000m, spanning from the 3020m summit to the 1003m base, offers a thrilling playground for advanced skiers and off-piste enthusiasts. As a haven for backcountry skiing, it is highly recommended to hire a guide to find the best of the area. The ‘Big Five’ off-piste descents are a must-try experience and include the 35-40-degree shoulder of Laub, as well as the exhilarating routes of Sulz, Steintäli, Steinberg, and Galtiberg. 

Great Accessibility 

Engelberg offers excellent accessibility, allowing you to easily reach it from Zurich. In under 2 hours, you can conveniently travel here by rail from Zurich’s International Airport. Once you arrive, shuttle buses are available to seamlessly transport you between train stations, accommodation, and winter activities, all free of charge. 

Combine it with Lucerne

Engelberg’s proximity to the city of Lucerne, only 30km away, makes it an ideal place for a memorable ski trip. Lucerne is a stunning destination in its own right so consider additional days to explore it after your ski trip. Immerse yourself in Lucerne’s enchanting 14th-century Chapel Bridge, the oldest bridge in Europe. Wander through the captivating Old Town, featuring charming cobblestone streets and medieval architecture. Explore the quiet waters of Lake Lucerne on a relaxing cruise or delve into the fascinating exhibits at the Swiss Museum of Transport. 

Dragon Mountain

Mt Pilatus is a must-see attraction located just a short 10-minute bus ride from Lucerne train station. Hop aboard the panoramic gondolas that whisk you up to the mountain’s lookout points, offering stunning vistas perfect for capturing Instagram-worthy photos. Once there, try thrilling local activities such as sledding, snowshoeing, or even experience the adrenaline rush of the ‘Dragon Glider’ – a harnessed zipline ride. If you’re seeking a low-key adventure, Mt Pilatus offers three relatively easy 4km snowshoe trails between the Krienseregg and Frakmuntegg sections, and it’s an activity older kids and adults can do together.

The mountain hosts a renowned red aerial ‘Dragon Ride’ cable car that takes you soaring to the summit at an impressive elevation of 2123m. At the summit of Mt Pilatus, you’ll discover a remarkable destination, featuring two exceptional hotels, so pop in for a cheeky drink here. The aptly named Hotel Bellevue offers unrivaled views, while the historic mountain Hotel Pilatus-Kulm, dating back to 1890, exudes a captivating charm. Foodies will appreciate diverse culinary offerings available on the mountain, ranging from traditional Swiss delicacies to regional and seasonal dishes, as well as yummy grills or simple bar meals. Families with young children will find an educational wonderland in PILU Land, complete with fire pits, picnic areas, and ample space for little ones to let off steam.

         THE JUNGFRAU REGION

The Jungfrau region is a wonderful choice for skiers with ‘four snow resorts in one’ (Grindelwald, Wengen, Lauterbrunnen and Murren) and over 250 km of slopes to explore. For an unforgettable skiing experience in the heart of the Jungfrau, consider staying in the charming village of Mürren . This car-free village is very picturesque and provides a chilled setting where you can unwind and appreciate the breathtaking surroundings. At the base of the famous Mt Schilthorn, Mürren truly embodies the essence of Swiss paradise and is an experience that should not be missed.

Great Accessibility

If you are coming from Zurich International airport , the journey takes just three hours by train to Lauterbrunnen via Bern and Interlaken Ost then switch to a cable car to Mürren for the final leg. with just three train changes. The train ride itself is magnificently scenic as it weaves through the Interlaken area, between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz climbing upwards into the Alps. It really is something special and you feel immersed in the natural beauty. 

 Challenging Runs

 There are plenty of opportunities in the Jungfrau for advanced skiing with thirty percent of combined terrain marked as advanced or black runs. Black runs are a combination of off-piste, freeride, and mogul sections so All-Mountain skis are recommended. If you didn’t bring All Mountain skis from home, numerous rental stores are available with excellent quality equipment. 

One of the highlights of this ski area is the renown Lauberhorn Run. This exhilarating 4.4km descent takes you from the Wixi top chairlift all the way down to the charming village of Wengen. Or challenge yourself on the Slalom World Cup track, one of the steepest slopes of the area.

I highly recommend hiring a local guide especially if it’s your first visit here. A knowledgeable guide will help you navigate the terrain and discover the best aspects and local hotspots around the mountains. Ski schools are available for ‘ski safaris’ to explore the area, including local restaurants as well as skiing the best slopes. During my own visit, I had the pleasure of embarking on a “ski safari” from Grindelwald to Wengen. 

This journey allowed us to indulge in an array of Swiss cuisines, featuring delectable cheeses, cakes, soups, and fondue. I wholeheartedly recommend this culinary adventure on skis, it’s a treat for your taste buds but also offers unrivaled views of the awe-inspiring Eiger and Jungfrau mountains. It’s an experience suitable for intermediate-level skiers or great for a non-powder skiing day. It’s worth noting that the ski pass includes train transport, enabling you to conveniently explore local charming villages of Wengen and Grindelwald during your stay in Mürren.

Murren –  Schilthorn: A Must-Visit Ski Area

A visit to Mt Schilthorn (2970m) from Mürren village is incredible and not to be missed. It’s an experience to do with the whole family so set aside time to fully enjoy this breathtaking attraction.

When you reach the summit of Schilthorn, you will instantly feel like you’ve stepped into a James Bond movie, and for good reason. Scenes from the iconic film “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” were filmed here between October 1968 and May 1969, if you’re a Bond fan it’s instantly recognisable. As an added bonus, you can explore Spy World and the cinema, free of charge. This is a great option to keep in mind if the weather turns unfavorable.

One of the highlights of Mt Schilthorn is Piz Gloria, the revolving restaurant that sits proudly on the summit. If you’d like panoramic views while you dine, it is highly recommended to book ahead to secure a window seat. However, please note that the lifts from the valley station to Schilthorn are currently being upgraded, which is a long-awaited and exciting improvement. As a result, certain sections of Schilthorn, such as the Thrill Walk at the Birg Station, will be closed from October 2024 to March 2025. 

Mt Schilthorn is renowned for its off-piste skiing, making it a favorite among advanced skiers. You can ski down from Mt Schilthorn but please note that it is a challenging run suitable for advanced skiers, particularly during blizzard conditions. The vertical drop here is an impressive 2,170m, with 58 km of accessible trails and the longest ski trail spanning 15km. Otherwise you can safely descend in the cable car back to Mürren after visiting the Cliff Walk at the middle station. 

Winter Adventures Galore

There is so much to do here on non-skiing days. For adrenaline-junkies, feel the rush as you soar 800m through the Alps on a thrilling zipline adventure. You can reach speeds of up to 84 km per hour and experience this exhilarating journey at the Snow Park in Grindelwald-First.

Not every Swiss resort offers sledding, but this remarkable region boasts more than 20 long trails. Witness the incredible skill of local sledders as you venture down renowned tracks such as Big Pintenfritz, the longest run in the world, the Fox Run, and the Apollo Run.

Experience the beauty of winter hikes against the backdrop of stunning views on over 100 km of trails specifically curated for this purpose. Explore hikes starting from Mürren, Grindelwald, and Mannlichen, and enhance your adventure with a one to seven-day hiking pass. This grants you access to groomed hiking trails with the convenience of lifted access.

 Panoramic Views of the Roof of EuropeExperience the breathtaking panoramic views of the Roof of Europe at the Jungfraujoch, the highest railway in the world. Whether you’re hiking, skiing, or snowshoeing in this region, the majestic peaks of Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau will tower above you as you explore the charming villages while you’re shopping and dining. To see Mont Blanc with the naked eye from Mt Schilthorn is a magical experience for visitors. Make sure to seize the opportunity to check these incredible sights off your bucket list.

The post Two Off-Piste Meccas You Don’t Want To Miss appeared first on Chillfactor.

Franklin St in downtown Juneau. Making me nostalgic for how Telluride, Park City and Crested Butte used to look.

Mountainwatch | Tony Harrington (words and photos)

As the Alaskan Airlines flight drops down through the clouds my destination finally comes into sight. The view for the past couple of hours from Seattle has been a steady stream of snow-capped mountains and it’s only in the final minutes as we come up the Gastineau Channel that a small criss-cross of roads and buildings are revealed – Juneau, Alaska.

You can only get to Alaska’s state capital by air or ferry and you’d be forgiven for not realising Juneau is technically a city. The vibe here is small town, and in the winter months it’s not exactly bustling.

The main street has a rustic charm and you get the feeling it doesn’t look a hell of a lot different now to when the hunt for gold brought prospectors, including Joe Juneau, this way back in the 1880s when the town was established. Indigenous Tlingit (pron: clink-it) and Haida (pron: high-da) Indian tribes have been fishing these salmon-rich waters for centuries and as you walk through town Tlingit names are on signs, buildings and maps.

Craving epic lift-accessed backcountry terrain? Here is Theresa Peak, Hogsback and Mt Ben Stuart with unlimited options.

As I’m exploring the main drag I’m trying to picture what’s it’s like in summer when half a dozen cruise liners pull in each day and tourists swarm through town. I’m definitely here in the off-season – and that’s how I like it.

I feel like I’m getting in on a well-kept secret, because just over the bridge on Douglas Island there’s a rad ski mountain, and this whole area is surrounded by amazing heli-accessed terrain and there is barely anyone here. I made my first visit to ski Eaglecrest – they call it a ski hill, it’s 640 acres with 1620 feet of vertical – last year and I’m fired up to be back so soon.

Mt Buller’s Harry Hart slashing some Eaglecrest pow

Could this be a unicorn; a seriously good ski destination that hasn’t been overrun (yet?)  What it doesn’t have ticks a lot of my boxes – no lift lines, no traffic snarls on the 22-minute drive from town, no parking dramas, no wanker attitude and no frills. What it does have is darn good skiing, friendly locals, a huge almost empty ski area and at the end of the day plenty of great old school bars and places to get a great meal back in town.

I’m not going to spin some line or say the snow is always epic – it gets it all here; deep dry powder, creamy dreamy soft snow, a bit of crust and crud and the occasional dollop of mashed potatoes and a smattering of hard pack. As skiers we are all gamblers, but I’d put a bet on this place any day.  And that’s why after my first taste I was keen to get back, and I brought a few mates with me.

Hannes Grimus finding room to move on a snowy day in Eaglecrest

An Eaglecrest  patroller on one of those days you’d be happy with your career choice.

Our group of skiers and boarders from Mt Buller consisted of Moz Bardas, Mal and Harry Hart, Mt Buller legend Hannes Grimus and his Austrian mountain guide mate Peter Breitfuss – and it was certainly an eye opener for everyone.

It was Hannes’s first trip to Alaska and as we planned this mission he was frothing on every detail. When he’s not freeskiing or running the ski shop in his family’s business, Pension Grimus on Mt Buller, Hannes spends his life around ski race courses, initially as an FIS alpine racer and more recently as a World Cup/Olympic coach. Hannes convinced his mates Moz and Mal to join the trip. Both Moz and Mal are seasoned Alaskan heli skiers who have scored both hits and misses on heli skiing trips up this way. When you’re working with Mother Nature, the Alaskan wilderness and helicopters you know you are buckling into a rollercoaster ride that can be the biggest thrill of your life or an expensive and frustrating disappointment. Most heli trips require a willingness to accept a level of risk and reward in equal measure – but the good news for our group was, we found a way to tilt the odds a little more in our favour.

Most heliski operations in Alaska are tucked out in remote locations. A helicopter, its pilot and engineer are out in these far-flung spots every day of the heli season – which is a cost to the operation. It doesn’t matter if the heli doesn’t leave the ground, there are fixed expenses and they are passed on to clients. No surprise there.

Mos Bardass, finding what he lead him to Juneau with Alaska Powder Descents.

Alaska Powder Descents are a little different because the helicopters they use are based out of Juneau airport and they only pay for the time they fly. For us, it meant instead of sitting in a heli lodge waiting anxiously for those fly-days we had tonnes of options that made for an epic week’s stay. When we weren’t getting in turns at Eaglecrest we were poking about in downtown Juneau, slotting in some hunting and fishing adventures and getting up to retail mischief in the epic outfitter stores (more Carhartt and guns than you could ever imagine). It’s pretty extraordinary to have a heli trip with such low ‘skunk factor’ in the mix, and the ‘local ski hill’ here is a big part of that insurance.

Eaglecrest’s inbounds terrain is a seriously good time and on their (Alaskan) rating has about 40% advanced terrain with another 40% intermediate. Then you take a peek at the side and backcountry and realise you need a lot more time here. Once you set your sights beyond the generous amount of groomed runs and steep off-piste terrain within the marked ski area, you are tempted with a smorgasbord of big, steep, Alaska-sized peaks and terrain features where short hikes or a tour from the top of the Ptarmigan lift will put you into some of the best terrain any serious freeskier could imagine. As a bonus, you get to ski back to the lift.

Two local generations sharing the stoke on a storm day.

I don’t think I’m going too far out on a limb to say this place is a legit adventure ski destination that I would put high on any North American list, if not at the top. The fact that it’s completely off the radar only makes it more off the hook.

Anyway, I’m getting you distracted, from the main event – the promise of heli lines that brought our posse of powder-seekers all the way from Australia. In the case of Moz, Mal and Harry they’d literally just landed when we got the call that it was on. Hannes and Peter had at least had a couple of days to get their AK bearings, but for the others we scooped them from the arrival hall fresh off their international flight and made the short drive 500m to the Temsco Heli base where Alaskan Powder Descents (APD) were ready to deliver us to the top of some fresh lines.

APD are a small operation and it gives them the advantage of being really nimble. When conditions align they can act fast. Our group hustled into action, the sky was blue, there was powder in the mountains waiting and no better way to shake jetlag than a whiff of Jet-A, the scream of a turbine and face shots to boot.

Hannes Grimus, Alaska Powder Descents.

It’s such a dance with the weather and terrain in Alaska as you strive for that ‘goldilocks’ alignment of snow falling and weather clearing and the hope that blasting wind doesn’t undo it all. It can often happen that as the low-pressure storm system moves out high pressure can build in the interior. This pressure imbalance will suck in frigid arctic air that funnels down valleys at a blistering speed, hammering whole swathes of terrain turning dreams of powder turns into nightmares. These weather events also send the mercury plummeting making for insanely cold days. Despite this exact scenario happening during our window we struck gold, just like those early pioneers, with a number of drainages that had escaped the onslaught of the wind. We feasted on bountiful, long powder-filled runs in dead-calm conditions to the valley floor. The bliss of being in these sheltered seams of powder while witnessing the gale force winds stirring up a swell on the Lynn Canal below us was mesmerising.

“We feasted on bountiful, long powder-filled runs in dead-calm conditions to the valley floor.”

After three days of flying and gorging on untracked vertical another North Pacific storm system made its way to us. It was time to say goodbye to our rotor-spinning ways and get our kicks finding fun off the Ptarmigan chair at Eaglecrest. Good times were had exploring the terrain, and fair to say that ‘local ski hill’ has plenty going for it as we slayed tree lines and kept the stoke levels sky high. I was hoping to get the boys out past “The Ridge” on to Hogs Back and over to Mt Stewart but the weather had other ideas.  I guess we’ll just have to do that next time.

I can only imagine what it would have been like to kick along Colorado Street in Telluride, Elk Avenue in Crested Butte or Main Street Park City back in the days when they were still low-key ski towns before winter tourism really took hold and changed them into the destinations they are today.

You’re not in Lygon Street anymore.

I feel pretty lucky to be strolling down South Franklin Street in Juneau, rolling into an old-school bar with no line outside and no fancy cocktails inside. It’s cool to experience somewhere special before everyone else cottons on to what a gem it is. If you like your skiing solid and simple and are up for the kind of untamed adventure that Alaska offers this might be something you’d like too – just don’t go telling too many people.

PS: The local tourism website shares a cautionary message that ‘once you visit you may not want to go home’.  Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

If you’re keen to explore Juneau and Eaglecrest head to  www.traveljuneau.com and skieaglecrest.com for more information. Check out Alaskan Powder Descents for its easy-accessed heli skiing.

Eaglecrest’s groomers taking in the view after nightshift

Hannes with some bounty from the harbour

Harry Hart having the time of his life!

69-year-old Eaglecrest liftie “Hooter Dave” loading the groms

Hannes revelling in the powder

Alaska Powder Descents has no shortage of terrain

The post Juneau, Alaska – Is This the Last Undiscovered Ski Town in North America? appeared first on Chillfactor.

Experience the excitement of winter in Colorado with its 58 peaks over 4267m, offering endless adventures like skiing, snowboarding and snowmobiling. In summer, explore the natural beauty of the state through hiking, biking and rafting.

Discover unique attractions at Colorado’s national parks, like high-mountain lakes at Rocky Mountain National Park and Ancestral Puebloan dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park. Great Sand Dunes National Park offers visitors the chance to surf the sands or hike surrounding trails while enjoying world’s best stargazing opportunities. Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park offers dramatic scenery and recreational activities.

Relax in one of Colorado’s 29 hot springs pools year-round, ranging from luxurious resorts to hike-in destinations. Off the slopes, the capital city of Denver offers plenty of attractions like museums, cultural activities and enticing restaurants featuring craft libations.

Exciting news from Colorado’s 28 ski areas and resorts includes Telluride Ski Resort and Copper Mountain celebrating their 50th anniversaries, Vail Mountain unveiling a transformative two-lift project, and Loveland Ski Area launching a guided snowcat operation in Dry Gulch.

Learn more

The post Dreaming of powder turns, look no further than Colorado for your next holiday! appeared first on Chillfactor.

There’s simply nowhere else like Utah. From mesmerizing hoodoo formations to towering rock arches to world-famous, powder-packed peaks to steep and deep canyons, it’s the sort of place you’d expect to have to travel to the ends of the earth to find. Yet it couldn’t be easier to get to. Skiers know this better than anyone. The new international airport that’s 10 minutes from exciting downtown Salt Lake City delivers you to a skier’s paradise that’s home to 15 major ski resort destinations, 10 of which are within a one-hour drive from the airport!

 There’s simply nowhere else like Utah. From mesmerizing hoodoo formations to towering rock arches to world-famous, powder-packed peaks to steep and deep canyons, it’s the sort of place you’d expect to have to travel to the ends of the earth to find. Yet it couldn’t be easier to get to. Skiers know this better than anyone. The new international airport that’s 10 minutes from exciting downtown Salt Lake City delivers you to a skier’s paradise that’s home to 15 major ski resort destinations, 10 of which are within a one-hour drive from the airport!

Brian Head–Utah’s Family-Friendly Ski Playground

Brian Head Resort is an unforgettable winter getaway. Located just 90 minutes of Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks, here’s a one-of- a-kind ski destination with short lift lines and Utah’s highest base elevation; all within a three-hour drive of the glamour of Las Vegas.

Brian Head is a laid-back western town with easy access to snowmobiling, ice skating and snowshoeing. Being close to multiple national parks makes it easy to extend your vacation, packing your itinerary with extraordinary sites and experiences.

Plan your trip at brianhead.com

IT’S TIME YOU DISCOVERED HEBER VALLEY, UTAH

Come enjoy one of Mother Nature’s favorite destinations! Discover the diverse dining, lodging, activities, events, and attractions in this alpine town. Here, we’ve coined the phrase “après all day” as the culture and lifestyle of Heber Valley invites guests to explore more, whether that be on a snowmobile or mountain bike, spa day or midday cocktails. With so much to do, see, taste, and experience, a visit to this beautiful mountain town leaves you longing for more. The cool temps and dry warmth of summer is a perfect blend for golf by day and stargazing by night. And known as a true winter wonderland, the valley becomes a skier’s paradise during the winter months. With the new Mayflower Mountain Resort opening in winter 2024/25, Heber Valley, Utah is becoming a top ski destination for many around the world. Now is the perfect time to plan a visit and discover Heber Valley for your next vacation, work trip, family reunion, or important destination meeting and event.

From skiing to snowshoeing, plan your winter adventure at gohebervalley.com

SKI UTAH

Ski Utah and ski The Greatest Snow on Earth®. Whether you’re looking for deep powder, or freshly groomed corduroy, you’ll find it in Utah. Each year, Mother Nature unleashes over 500 inches (13 metres) of the lightest, driest snow imaginable on Utah’s 15 resorts. During the 2022–23 season, she played favorites and delivered over 900 inches (23 metres) of snow to Utah resorts. And with 10 resorts less than an hour’s drive from Salt Lake City International Airport, it’s easy to ski or ride a different resort each day of your holiday. Plan to ski or ride Utah this year and have the holiday of a lifetime.

Don’t miss out on the fun! Plan your winter getaway at skiutah.com

VISIT PARK CITY

Home to two world-class ski resorts, Deer Valley, and Park City Mountain, and the SundanceFilm Festival, Park City is a charming historic town with award-winning restaurants, a vibrant nightlife, unique art galleries, a variety of shopping, and some of the most ambitious sustainability goals of any mountain town. Guests can experience an array of activities including snowmobiling, dogsledding, wellness activities, bobsledding at the Utah Olympic Park, and a progressive snow playground at Woodward Park City. Located just 35 minutes from Salt Lake City International Airport, your dream winter holiday has never been closer.

Visit visitparkcity.com to start planning your family-friendly ski vacation today!

SALT LAKE

Salt Lake is a premier ski destination boasting unparalleled access to world-class skiing and snowboarding. With four ski resorts located just a 40-minute drive from downtown, you’ll dive into over 500 inches of annual snowfall, varied terrain, and stunning mountain views. But Salt Lake is more than just a winter sports paradise-it’s also a vibrant urban center with an exciting culinary and cultural scene, making it the perfect destination for those looking to combine outdoor adventure with city exploration.

Visit visitsaltlake.com to start planning the ultimate winter escape.

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